Wild Heritage Taxidermy

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Services/Prices

We are State And Federally Licensed.  We mount Birds, Gameheads, & Lifesize.  From shoulder mounts to custom basework and habitat, we are a full service shop. Below you will find our Price List and Field Care Tips.  If you have any questions before, during, or after your hunt don't hesitate to call or stop by.  Our shop is located only steps from our home so we are available most anytime.  

We are open 7 days a week. From about 7am to 9pm. If we are not at the shop there is always a phone # on the door to reach us at.

Pick up and Delivery for most of AZ can be arranged on a case by case basis, call for a quote.

 Basic Base and Habitat included with all Lifesize mounts.

For Exotics, African, Birds, Fish and other animals not listed please call for pricing.

2011 Price List

Shoulder

Pedestal

1/2 Lifesize

Lifesize

Rug 

Euro

Antelope

$650

$900-1100

 

$3000

 

$150

Bear – Black

$675

$925-1125

$1500-1800

$3000

$235 L Ft

Under 22”-$150 

Over 22”-$

    -   Grizzly

$825

$1200-1400

$2000-2400

$4200

$250 L Ft

See above

Bobcat

$525

$700-850

 

$1075

$725

$125

Bighorn

$755

$1000-1500

$1800-2000

$3350

 

$425

Coyote

$525

$750-950

 

$1075

$725

$125

Deer

$575

$825-1025

 

$3000

 

$175

Elk

$1095

$1500-2000

 

$5200

 

$375

Fox

$525

$700-850

 

$1075

 

$125

Javelina

$525

$750-950

$800-975

$1075

$725

$150

Mountian Lion

$625

$800-1000

 

$3000

$235 L Ft

$150

Bison

$1200

$1600-2000

 

$5500 and up

$235 L Ft

$375

Badger

$525

$700-950

 

$1075

$725

$125

Coatimundi

$525

$700-950

 

$1075

$725

$125
NO WORK WILL BEGIN WITHOUT A DEPOSIT. A minimum deposit of 50% is required at time mount is received or within 30 days. Your mount  will not be put into the work rotation until your deposit is received. Deposits are non-refundable. Any animal in our possession without a deposit after 3 months becomes the property of Wild Heritage and may be sold or disposed of without notification or compensation to the customer. All game must be legally taken. We are not responsible for loss or damage in tanning or transit. We are not responsible for losses due to fire, theft, vandalism, natural disasters or mechanical failures.
Upon completion - the full balance is due within 30 days. If the balance has not been paid after 30 days, you will be charged $15 per month, per mount, storage. After 90 days, your mount will be placed for sale for the balance of charges due. No mount leaves until all charges are paid in full. Please note that you have not been promised a completion date. Any completion date you may have been given is approximate. Since many factors may affect our work, all work is done at the owner's risk.-


Field Care Instructions

It is always best to visit with your taxidermist and discuss with us how we would like to receive your trophy. It is best to choose your taxidermist prior to going afield. That way when you complete your hunt you can get your trophy to us quickly.

Caping is the process of skinning out your trophy. The skinning around the delicate parts, such as the eyes, nose, lips, and ears is best left up to the taxidermist. It is possible to cool the hide by packing the body cavity, or placing the hide and head on frozen water bottles in a cooler. Most of the archery hunts happen in warm weather, where the spoilage of the meat and cape become a factor.

Many trophies are ruined in the first few hours after death. As soon as the animal dies bacteria begins to attack the carcass. Heat and moisture is the ideal environment for the bacteria that causes slippage. Always remember that the cape or skin will spoil faster than the meat will.

Please see Do's & Don'ts at the bottom of the page.

Caping for a Shoulder Mount
When field dressing, do not cut past the breast bone! Make a circular cut all the way around the animal's mid section half way between the front legs and the rear legs. Make a second cut all the way around each knee. Hang the animal by it's rear legs after the circular cuts around the front legs have been made. When skinning the front legs follow the line made by the hair patterns on the back of the leg straight up untill it intersects the mid-body incision . Do not cut through the armpits. At this point you will not need to make anymore cuts in the skin. Skin the carcass to the base of the skull (peeling it off like a sock) and cut through the neck removing the head and cape in one piece. It is not necessary to make a cut up the back of the neck.

At this point you can freeze the head and skin or put it in a cooler with some frozen water bottles. Fold fur to fur or skin to skin, do not roll the hide up. Do not put in a plastic trash bag. Do not submerse in water. It is important to get it to your taxidermist as soon as possible. NEVER put any salt on any part of the skin unless you have skinned it completely off the head and have turned the eyes, nose, ears, and lips inside-out. Turning the eyes, ears, lips, nose is best left to the taxidermist. If you are on a back county hunt and need to do this please get instruction from your taxidermist before going into the field.

Skinning Life-Size Big Game

If you are considering a lifesize mount please talk to us before going into the field! The pose you want to mount the animal in will determine the skinning method.

There are two major methods for skinning for large life-size mounts. These methods are the Dorsal Method and the Flat Incision.
Flat Incision
The flat incision is used for rugs, and a variety of life-size poses. Make the cuts as in figure 2 cutting through the ankles bones leaving the feet inside the hide. Peel the hide off the carcass and detaching the head as in the shoulder mount instructions. Cool the hide in shade until heat has left it (Don't let it dry out!) Fold fur to fur or skin to skin, do not roll. Then place on frozen water bottles or freeze. Once again get to your taxidermist as soon as possible.
Dorsal Method
The Dorsal Method of skinning involves a long cut from the base of the tail to the neck. The carcass is pulled out through this one incision. Using the same information as stated above. Leaving the head, and feet inside the skin. Freeze immediately. Use this method only if you taxidermist agrees.

Small Mammals
Animals, coyote sized or smaller, should not be skinned unless by a professional. Don't gut the animal. Small mammals, especially carnivores, will spoil quickly because of their thin hide and bacteria. If you can't take the small game animal immediately to a taxidermist, Place in the freezer on a plastic bag, as soon as the carcass cools completely, put it in a plastic bag and return to the freezer.

Birds
Do not gut the bird. Rinse blood off the feathers with water. Take the bird immediately to you taxidermist or freeze it. Put the bird into a plastic bag for freezing being careful not to damage the feathers, including the tail. If the bird's tail feathers do not fit in the bag do not bend them. Let the tail stick out of the bag and tie the bag loosely.

Do's and Don'ts

Always use a sharp Knife, and have a method of keeping it sharp.

Always cut in a straight line, if you fade to one side, gradually head back to where you want to go. Do not make radical direction changes.

Always cool the hides and freeze as soon as possible.

Always leave enough hide.

Do not cut up the back of the neck!

Never salt!

Never drag animal it causes bruising and hair damage.

Never use plastic bags, except when placing in freezer.

Never Air-Dry hides.

Tip: Always have appropriate tags with your trophies when you take them to your taxidermist.

Songbirds, Eagles, Hawks, and Owls are protected by Federal Law and can not be mounted unless with special Federal permit.

For situations where you are hunting with no available taxidermist or freezer, ask your taxidermist about techniques to skin out the entire cape (including the head) and salting the hide. This is the only method in remote locations that can preserve your hide for later mounting.

Ask about our care and maintenance recommendations on finished trophies.

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